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Saturday 18 July 2015

Make the most of being lost . . . In Istanbul

So often when I travel, I ask for directions. When I was in Ireland I was frequently given directions by pub "Do you know Davitt's Pub? Well turn left there and go straight on". Well, I didn't know Davitt's Pub, but by asking, I found it. Or . . . "Could you tell me the way to . . ", I might ask. "Now, I wouldn't start from here", would be the response. "Could you tell me then, how might I get to where I should begin"? "Do you know Davitt's Pub" . . and on it goes.

Today was somewhat similar, although in a language I did't understand, and in a city that was overcrowded with people holidaying. It was the beginning of Bayram - a festival marking the end of the Ramadan fast. It is a joyous family time and everyone was out taking advantage of their beautiful city.

As I wasn't able to do as I had originally planned, I was advised to walk along the Bosphorus: the remarkable body of water that connects the Sea of Marmara with the Black Sea and forms part of the boundary between Asia and Europe. Heavenly! And, I should begin my journey in Ortaköy! It sounds simple . . .

The first challenge was getting onto the bus. I couldn't get a bus ticket as all the shops that sold the necessary transit pass, were closed. When I tried to explain this to the bus driver, offering to pay him cash, he would not allow it . . enter a lovely man who, upon hearing my plight, paid my fare (1 Turkish Lire). I asked the bus driver, in simple English, if he could please let me know when we arrived at Ortaköy. He forgot.  I discovered this when every other bus passenger got off. . . And so, being the intrepid woman, my long walk along the Bosphorus took me back to Ortaköy.

On my journey I passed fishermen, swimmers, families sharing a picnic and not a single (other) tourist!


Once I had reached the place from where I should have begun my journey, I sat and recovered with a glass of wine and freshly caught fish, while watching tourist boats come and go.


So, the moral of the story is, if you find yourself lost, ask a stranger for help and find a lovely place to treat yourself. It can be discouraging when plans don't work out as expected, but the intrepid woman, seizes each opportunity and creates a new adventure!

Wednesday 8 July 2015

Have you found yourself in Marrakech during Ramadan?

Marrakech is beautiful. Each morning I awaken to the sound of the call to prayer, and last night, someone was signing prayers outside Dar Attajmil, where I am staying, in the heart of the medina. Lucrezia, who owns the riad, and her staff and great at making solo female travellers feel welcome and safe. The souks are nearby and as it is low season, there are fewer tourists.



However, the temperature at this time of year is extreme - 42 degrees celsius and humid. It also happens to be Ramadan which means that a) some places are closed; b) it's best to shop and do deals in the mornings when the temperatures are cooler and the storekeepers not exhausted. I must say, going without food or drink (not even water) from sunrise to sunset, in 40+ degree heat would make this intrepid woman somewhat grumpy, but the Moroccans remain good humoured. It just means things move a bit more slowly.

My experience in all of Morocco has been great. As long as you dress discretely you will not be bothered. Perhaps save the shorts, low cut t-shirts or short skirts for another place (all of which, in fact, would not be good in the heat).

On my first jet lagged day I went to Jardin Marjorelle and listened to song birds and say beneath the trees for a cool quiet time away from the busy souks. The garden is also home to a terrific Berber Museum to get you better acquainted with some of the cultural traditions of this place, and a memorial to Yves Saint Laurent.

Geuliz, part of the modern city, has great design shops and contemporary hang outs. It's a good way to begin the journey.

The following morning I had found my feet and was ready for the good natured bartering with souk merchants. Enjoy the experience as you will not insult them if you offer 1/2 what they say the price is. Then you have tea, be dramatic and play along until you get a price you are both comfortable with. The only warning I would have is do not begin bargaining if you really have no intention of buying. If you do not come to an agreed price, you can walk away without any insult.

OH . .and if you are Celiac, Vegan, Vegetarian, Omnivore . . .Marrakech cuisine is for you! Vegetable, meat, vegan tagines! Heavenly