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Friday 6 May 2016

Intrepid Women of Kenya



In 2013 I spent four months living in Kenya conducting research on the role women play in community healing and peacebuilding. During that time I ran arts-infused workshops in Kibera and Haruma, two of Nairobi's largest slums. These workshops were conducted with women from eight different tribes, to explore their concept of peace, how they played a role in promoting peace in their communities as the general election neared . . . but that story is for another time.

During my four months in Kenya, I was lucky enough to connect with three women's only villages: one located in the Massai Mara and two in Samburu dsitrict. The latter two had been created out of necessity: by women who had been victims of rape by members of local detachment of the British Military and who had been ostracized by their husbands and family. There is great shame attached to rape in Kenya, and therefore women rarely speak of it.

Another women's only village, the Village of Senchen is another example of a Samburu group of women who created a village in response to the violence they had undergone.  They are surviving by helping one another. It is through creating community that women support one another.


Wednesday 27 April 2016

Did you forget to take your camera?

Sometimes travelling alone opens up opportunities to return to places. A few years ago I spent some time in Kenya.  In fact, for four months I navigated the country on my own with the help of strangers. It was wonderful, and at times overwhelming. The other day, I was reminded that one of the great things about travelling on your own is the ability to return to a place over and over again. Sometimes just to take a photograph.

It is beautiful in Kenya: sunny and warm, bougainvillea of every colour, jacaranda trees and a sea of never ending traffic and people. Quick smiles greeted me where ever I went. I had been in Nairobi for four days and have almost adjusted to normal sleeping hours. Each morning I am awakened by the Imam call to prayer - a haunting sound that draws me in to listen more intently to the sounds. Then the birds began their announcements, competing with one another to give their morning news.

My first morning I went to the David Sheldrick Elephant orphanage but forgot to take my camera!! It was sweet as some of the elephants (6 months to 3 years) were cooling themselves but using their tusks to dust red earth along their backs. Baboons lined the road as we headed  along side the road - actually baboons I think, I'll have to check "the book". Then to a sanctuary to feed Rothchild's giraffes - although somewhat touristy it was interesting. Warthogs gobbled up what remained from the pellets that dropped on the ground from people too scared to allow the giraffe's tongue to touch them.

When I came back to my room and washed my face it was covered in red dust from the elephants! The elephants haunted me and I was so upset that I didn't have an image of them I knew I had to return.

Whenever I travel alone and come across a taxi driver that I feel is trustworthy and helpful, I take their card. This has served me well when I am in a small city and need to get around. In this instance, I had taken the card of my taxi driver, Peter. It turned out that all my taxi drivers called themselves "Peter".  When I asked him that every taxi driver I had in Nairobi was called "Peter", and that perhaps he should come up with a different name to help identify himself to tourists, he explains that his Kukuyu name would be too difficult for tourists.

And so, we returned to David Sheldrick so I could photograph the LF-ants