Alone in Kenya?

Travelling alone can be difficult at the best of times. You can go on a group tour and have all your needs taken care of OR, for the Intrepid Woman, you may find you have it in you to explore solo or with a friend or two, a region that is unknown to most . . . Sub-Saharan Africa.

One way to travel to Kenya alone is to go to unique places such as women's only villages: you can read more about my travels last year by seeing my blog Letters from Kenya and Beyond. These are not the glamourous resorts that we read about in the glossy magazines, but they are comfortable and you will be able to speak with women who are intrepid in a very deep sense. You may even make friends (it's hard not to).

There are two brilliant places that are safe and welcome women. The villages are run by women, are ecologically sustainable, and guest friendly. In the Maasai Mara you can stay at Tepesua Cultural Camp.  Once there, Hellen Nkurayia will be your host and take you to the widows village and the rescue centre, a school where young Maasai girls are offered an education rather than circumcision or early marriage. She can arrange tours to the game reserve as well as it is nearby. When I stayed there was a lion in the vicinity so I hired a Maasai Warrior to guard me through the night.

In Samburu (near Archer's Post to the North of the Great Rift Valley) you can stay at Umoja Women's Only Village and visit another women's village nearby called Unity. The women are extraordinary in both places.

How to get there? Well, you can fly or have the best experience by travelling in a car with Samson Mwaki (if you need his email you can get in touch with me. I don't want to leave it on this blog as spammers may pick it up) ! He will even pick you up at the airport in Nairobi! He is quick to laugh and very trustworthy and warm.

Alone at breakfast?

Finding yourself alone at breakfast can be an intimidating experience. Mustering up the courage to go to the breakfast room of a hotel in a new city can seem daunting. I sometimes feel that I am not sure where I can sit without being conspicuous; perhaps feeling out of place with all those couples and families together.

This morning at the House Hotel Nisantasi I watched as a young American woman arrived off the elevator   -  this is what greets you - and she said to the waiter, "I'm alone. Where should I sit". He was terrific as he led her to a quiet table so she could watch the room.

It is very beautiful space isn't it? It feels like an intimate place and so can be difficult knowing where to sit. I always sit a corner so I can watch people. I absolutely love people watching I also bring my journal. I write everyday when I am travelling as once I am home, I sometimes forget the details of what I've seen, heard and smelled the day before.

It is great having breakfast alone. I can take as much time as I want as I've nobody else to hurry me along. It's also possible to listen in on others conversations, read body language and see how families interact - I'm really naughty about that! I also love to plan out my day while savouring the coffee.

Enjoy the quiet, peaceful time of day as you get ready to embark on the next adventure

The pleasure of exploring at your own pace: Istanbul, City of Mosques

One great benefit to solo travel is that you get to go on your schedule. When in Istanbul, as with so many cities during tourist season, it is important to get to the sites early: as the day unfolds more and more people venture out. Queues are not my favourite things at the best of times but in the heat, it can be unbearable.

I set out early in the morning to visit the Chora Museum: The Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora, the most exquisite example of Byzantine churches surviving. In the 16th century, during the Ottoman Empire, it was converted into a mosque and in 1948, after the war, into a museum. It was raining and so nobody else was there. Perhaps this wasn't a bad idea as it was pouring rain, but I was grateful for having peeled myself out of bed as there was not another tourist in sight so I had the place to myself.

Much of the Museum was closed as it is being reconstructed but what was open was spectacular and only encourages me to return.

 Below you can see how the mosaic is added to the rebuilt wall

I've been here for a week now and, although people told me that I should travel outside of Istanbul, I thankfully didn't listen. I understood, and rightly so, that this city is abundant in Mosques decorated with Byzantine mosaics and I wanted to get my fill.

After I left, the sun came out and I headed to Istiklal Caddesi, the main pedestrian thoroughfare for a coffee at the House Cafe . What a perfect iced coffee: frozen coffee cubes in a glass, add milk as desired and wait for it to melt.

As a solo traveller you can comfortably sit while your coffee melts and watch the passers-by. Perhaps, if you're lucky enough, you will be serenaded by little people busking . .