Did you forget to take your camera?

Sometimes travelling alone opens up opportunities to return to places. A few years ago I spent some time in Kenya.  In fact, for four months I navigated the country on my own with the help of strangers. It was wonderful, and at times overwhelming. The other day, I was reminded that one of the great things about travelling on your own is the ability to return to a place over and over again. Sometimes just to take a photograph.

It is beautiful in Kenya: sunny and warm, bougainvillea of every colour, jacaranda trees and a sea of never ending traffic and people. Quick smiles greeted me where ever I went. I had been in Nairobi for four days and have almost adjusted to normal sleeping hours. Each morning I am awakened by the Imam call to prayer - a haunting sound that draws me in to listen more intently to the sounds. Then the birds began their announcements, competing with one another to give their morning news.

My first morning I went to the David Sheldrick Elephant orphanage but forgot to take my camera!! It was sweet as some of the elephants (6 months to 3 years) were cooling themselves but using their tusks to dust red earth along their backs. Baboons lined the road as we headed  along side the road - actually baboons I think, I'll have to check "the book". Then to a sanctuary to feed Rothchild's giraffes - although somewhat touristy it was interesting. Warthogs gobbled up what remained from the pellets that dropped on the ground from people too scared to allow the giraffe's tongue to touch them.

When I came back to my room and washed my face it was covered in red dust from the elephants! The elephants haunted me and I was so upset that I didn't have an image of them I knew I had to return.

Whenever I travel alone and come across a taxi driver that I feel is trustworthy and helpful, I take their card. This has served me well when I am in a small city and need to get around. In this instance, I had taken the card of my taxi driver, Peter. It turned out that all my taxi drivers called themselves "Peter".  When I asked him that every taxi driver I had in Nairobi was called "Peter", and that perhaps he should come up with a different name to help identify himself to tourists, he explains that his Kukuyu name would be too difficult for tourists.

And so, we returned to David Sheldrick so I could photograph the LF-ants. 

Make the most of being lost . . . In Istanbul

So often when I travel, I ask for directions. When I was in Ireland I was frequently given directions by pub "Do you know Davitt's Pub? Well turn left there and go straight on". Well, I didn't know Davitt's Pub, but by asking, I found it. Or . . . "Could you tell me the way to . . ", I might ask. "Now, I wouldn't start from here", would be the response. "Could you tell me then, how might I get to where I should begin"? "Do you know Davitt's Pub" . . and on it goes.

Today was somewhat similar, although in a language I did't understand, and in a city that was overcrowded with people holidaying. It was the beginning of Bayram - a festival marking the end of the Ramadan fast. It is a joyous family time and everyone was out taking advantage of their beautiful city.

As I wasn't able to do as I had originally planned, I was advised to walk along the Bosphorus: the remarkable body of water that connects the Sea of Marmara with the Black Sea and forms part of the boundary between Asia and Europe. Heavenly! And, I should begin my journey in Ortaköy! It sounds simple . . .

The first challenge was getting onto the bus. I couldn't get a bus ticket as all the shops that sold the necessary transit pass, were closed. When I tried to explain this to the bus driver, offering to pay him cash, he would not allow it . . enter a lovely man who, upon hearing my plight, paid my fare (1 Turkish Lire). I asked the bus driver, in simple English, if he could please let me know when we arrived at Ortaköy. He forgot.  I discovered this when every other bus passenger got off. . . And so, being the intrepid woman, my long walk along the Bosphorus took me back to Ortaköy.

On my journey I passed fishermen, swimmers, families sharing a picnic and not a single (other) tourist!

Once I had reached the place from where I should have begun my journey, I sat and recovered with a glass of wine and freshly caught fish, while watching tourist boats come and go.

So, the moral of the story is, if you find yourself lost, ask a stranger for help and find a lovely place to treat yourself. It can be discouraging when plans don't work out as expected, but the intrepid woman, seizes each opportunity and creates a new adventure!

Have you found yourself in Marrakech during Ramadan?

Marrakech is beautiful. Each morning I awaken to the sound of the call to prayer, and last night, someone was signing prayers outside Dar Attajmil, where I am staying, in the heart of the medina. Lucrezia, who owns the riad, and her staff and great at making solo female travellers feel welcome and safe. The souks are nearby and as it is low season, there are fewer tourists.

However, the temperature at this time of year is extreme - 42 degrees celsius and humid. It also happens to be Ramadan which means that a) some places are closed; b) it's best to shop and do deals in the mornings when the temperatures are cooler and the storekeepers not exhausted. I must say, going without food or drink (not even water) from sunrise to sunset, in 40+ degree heat would make this intrepid woman somewhat grumpy, but the Moroccans remain good humoured. It just means things move a bit more slowly.

My experience in all of Morocco has been great. As long as you dress discretely you will not be bothered. Perhaps save the shorts, low cut t-shirts or short skirts for another place (all of which, in fact, would not be good in the heat).

On my first jet lagged day I went to Jardin Marjorelle and listened to song birds and say beneath the trees for a cool quiet time away from the busy souks. The garden is also home to a terrific Berber Museum to get you better acquainted with some of the cultural traditions of this place, and a memorial to Yves Saint Laurent.

Geuliz, part of the modern city, has great design shops and contemporary hang outs. It's a good way to begin the journey.

The following morning I had found my feet and was ready for the good natured bartering with souk merchants. Enjoy the experience as you will not insult them if you offer 1/2 what they say the price is. Then you have tea, be dramatic and play along until you get a price you are both comfortable with. The only warning I would have is do not begin bargaining if you really have no intention of buying. If you do not come to an agreed price, you can walk away without any insult.

OH . .and if you are Celiac, Vegan, Vegetarian, Omnivore . . .Marrakech cuisine is for you! Vegetable, meat, vegan tagines! Heavenly

Does the early bird really catch the worm?

The early bird really does catch the worm and when travelling solo, you have no reason endure crowds unnecessarily: you are travelling on your own time, at your own pace. Fabulous! That being said, there have been many times in my travels when I have decided to lounge and savour the stillness of the mornings - although the birds can cause a real racket. Sometimes however, it is best to get out early to avoid the line-ups and crowds.

When I was in Nairobi I had heard about the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust . I had been told that it was something not to be missed and that the public are welcomed for only one hour a day so it was important to get there early. I had been told that the crowds would arrive about 30 minutes beforehand so I took a taxi to arrive in good time and had ample room to observe feeding and watering of the elephants.

What about transportation?

When traveling alone I have taken Metro in Montreal, a train in Toronto, a streetcar in San Francisco, a bus in Barcelona, a camel in the Sahara, a matatu in Nairobi, a boda boda in Uganda. There are so many ways to get around.

I find the best thing to do when I am travelling in a new country is to ask at the hotel for advice. There are times when taking a taxi is better than taking a bus from one city to another. If the cabbie is a learned, he (most often) or she can act as interpreter, guide and offer a glimpse into the lives of the locals. The trick is to not be too concerned about deadlines and be open to where you might be taken.

I once had only 6 hours in Athens and hired a taxi with a driver who was fluent in English, to tour me around the city. I wouldn't have seen the city if it hadn't been for him and, although I didn't have time to wander at will, I did get a sense of the city and had lunch at a lovely place run by local people.

Flights and fashion: How to get upgraded on the plane

We all love to be comfortable when we travel and thanks to new fabrics we can while still looking fabulous. I wonder how many of us have sat in the waiting area of an airport and watched people - it's one of my favourite pastimes. I love to see well-dressed men and women as they settle into wait and then head off to board. What I don't like is: to see people in their exercise gear or sweat pants; irate travellers yelling at the airline staff; people putting their feet up of chairs or leaving their suitcases on furniture so others can't sit;  fellow travellers remaining oblivious to the needs of others, pretending not to notice other travellers look for a seat in the waiting room, by keeping their focus on their mobile electronics.

My experience has been that if you take a bit more time getting yourself looking good and treat the airline staff with courtesy, you may just get upgraded. It's happened to me several times.

Here is what I've done:

• I wear a long dress (jersey is great and very comfortable). In case it is cold on the flight, I pack a pair of fluffy socks and leggings that I can slip under the dress.
• I put on make-up. If it is a long flight, I'll take it off once we are airborne and put on creams as flying dehydrates skin.
• I chat about my seat with the airline representative as I am being checked in. There have been several occasions when I have been upgraded (without paying) then.
• I am the last to board the plane and bring treats for the flight attendants. I make sure I let them know I appreciate the work they do.

What this accomplishes:

• I feel good as I've made personal contact with people who will be taking care of me for hours.
• I have expressed my appreciation - flight attendants aren't tipped yet they cater to our whim for hours.
• I feel good about how I am presenting myself .
• If I am not upgraded, I am treated better than anyone else in economy class!

Try it next time you're flying. I'd love to hear your stories. 

Alone in Kenya?

Travelling alone can be difficult at the best of times. You can go on a group tour and have all your needs taken care of OR, for the Intrepid Woman, you may find you have it in you to explore solo or with a friend or two, a region that is unknown to most . . . Sub-Saharan Africa.

One way to travel to Kenya alone is to go to unique places such as women's only villages: you can read more about my travels last year by seeing my blog Letters from Kenya and Beyond. These are not the glamourous resorts that we read about in the glossy magazines, but they are comfortable and you will be able to speak with women who are intrepid in a very deep sense. You may even make friends (it's hard not to).

There are two brilliant places that are safe and welcome women. The villages are run by women, are ecologically sustainable, and guest friendly. In the Maasai Mara you can stay at Tepesua Cultural Camp.  Once there, Hellen Nkurayia will be your host and take you to the widows village and the rescue centre, a school where young Maasai girls are offered an education rather than circumcision or early marriage. She can arrange tours to the game reserve as well as it is nearby. When I stayed there was a lion in the vicinity so I hired a Maasai Warrior to guard me through the night.

In Samburu (near Archer's Post to the North of the Great Rift Valley) you can stay at Umoja Women's Only Village and visit another women's village nearby called Unity. The women are extraordinary in both places.

How to get there? Well, you can fly or have the best experience by travelling in a car with Samson Mwaki (if you need his email you can get in touch with me. I don't want to leave it on this blog as spammers may pick it up) ! He will even pick you up at the airport in Nairobi! He is quick to laugh and very trustworthy and warm.

Alone at breakfast?

Finding yourself alone at breakfast can be an intimidating experience. Mustering up the courage to go to the breakfast room of a hotel in a new city can seem daunting. I sometimes feel that I am not sure where I can sit without being conspicuous; perhaps feeling out of place with all those couples and families together.

This morning at the House Hotel Nisantasi I watched as a young American woman arrived off the elevator   -  this is what greets you - and she said to the waiter, "I'm alone. Where should I sit". He was terrific as he led her to a quiet table so she could watch the room.

It is very beautiful space isn't it? It feels like an intimate place and so can be difficult knowing where to sit. I always sit a corner so I can watch people. I absolutely love people watching I also bring my journal. I write everyday when I am travelling as once I am home, I sometimes forget the details of what I've seen, heard and smelled the day before.

It is great having breakfast alone. I can take as much time as I want as I've nobody else to hurry me along. It's also possible to listen in on others conversations, read body language and see how families interact - I'm really naughty about that! I also love to plan out my day while savouring the coffee.

Enjoy the quiet, peaceful time of day as you get ready to embark on the next adventure

The pleasure of exploring at your own pace: Istanbul, City of Mosques

One great benefit to solo travel is that you get to go on your schedule. When in Istanbul, as with so many cities during tourist season, it is important to get to the sites early: as the day unfolds more and more people venture out. Queues are not my favourite things at the best of times but in the heat, it can be unbearable.

I set out early in the morning to visit the Chora Museum: The Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora, the most exquisite example of Byzantine churches surviving. In the 16th century, during the Ottoman Empire, it was converted into a mosque and in 1948, after the war, into a museum. It was raining and so nobody else was there. Perhaps this wasn't a bad idea as it was pouring rain, but I was grateful for having peeled myself out of bed as there was not another tourist in sight so I had the place to myself.

Much of the Museum was closed as it is being reconstructed but what was open was spectacular and only encourages me to return.

 Below you can see how the mosaic is added to the rebuilt wall

I've been here for a week now and, although people told me that I should travel outside of Istanbul, I thankfully didn't listen. I understood, and rightly so, that this city is abundant in Mosques decorated with Byzantine mosaics and I wanted to get my fill.

After I left, the sun came out and I headed to Istiklal Caddesi, the main pedestrian thoroughfare for a coffee at the House Cafe . What a perfect iced coffee: frozen coffee cubes in a glass, add milk as desired and wait for it to melt.

As a solo traveller you can comfortably sit while your coffee melts and watch the passers-by. Perhaps, if you're lucky enough, you will be serenaded by little people busking . .