Make the most of being lost . . . In Istanbul

So often when I travel, I ask for directions. When I was in Ireland I was frequently given directions by pub "Do you know Davitt's Pub? Well turn left there and go straight on". Well, I didn't know Davitt's Pub, but by asking, I found it. Or . . . "Could you tell me the way to . . ", I might ask. "Now, I wouldn't start from here", would be the response. "Could you tell me then, how might I get to where I should begin"? "Do you know Davitt's Pub" . . and on it goes.

Today was somewhat similar, although in a language I did't understand, and in a city that was overcrowded with people holidaying. It was the beginning of Bayram - a festival marking the end of the Ramadan fast. It is a joyous family time and everyone was out taking advantage of their beautiful city.

As I wasn't able to do as I had originally planned, I was advised to walk along the Bosphorus: the remarkable body of water that connects the Sea of Marmara with the Black Sea and forms part of the boundary between Asia and Europe. Heavenly! And, I should begin my journey in Ortaköy! It sounds simple . . .

The first challenge was getting onto the bus. I couldn't get a bus ticket as all the shops that sold the necessary transit pass, were closed. When I tried to explain this to the bus driver, offering to pay him cash, he would not allow it . . enter a lovely man who, upon hearing my plight, paid my fare (1 Turkish Lire). I asked the bus driver, in simple English, if he could please let me know when we arrived at Ortaköy. He forgot.  I discovered this when every other bus passenger got off. . . And so, being the intrepid woman, my long walk along the Bosphorus took me back to Ortaköy.

On my journey I passed fishermen, swimmers, families sharing a picnic and not a single (other) tourist!

Once I had reached the place from where I should have begun my journey, I sat and recovered with a glass of wine and freshly caught fish, while watching tourist boats come and go.

So, the moral of the story is, if you find yourself lost, ask a stranger for help and find a lovely place to treat yourself. It can be discouraging when plans don't work out as expected, but the intrepid woman, seizes each opportunity and creates a new adventure!

The pleasure of exploring at your own pace: Istanbul, City of Mosques

One great benefit to solo travel is that you get to go on your schedule. When in Istanbul, as with so many cities during tourist season, it is important to get to the sites early: as the day unfolds more and more people venture out. Queues are not my favourite things at the best of times but in the heat, it can be unbearable.

I set out early in the morning to visit the Chora Museum: The Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora, the most exquisite example of Byzantine churches surviving. In the 16th century, during the Ottoman Empire, it was converted into a mosque and in 1948, after the war, into a museum. It was raining and so nobody else was there. Perhaps this wasn't a bad idea as it was pouring rain, but I was grateful for having peeled myself out of bed as there was not another tourist in sight so I had the place to myself.

Much of the Museum was closed as it is being reconstructed but what was open was spectacular and only encourages me to return.

 Below you can see how the mosaic is added to the rebuilt wall

I've been here for a week now and, although people told me that I should travel outside of Istanbul, I thankfully didn't listen. I understood, and rightly so, that this city is abundant in Mosques decorated with Byzantine mosaics and I wanted to get my fill.

After I left, the sun came out and I headed to Istiklal Caddesi, the main pedestrian thoroughfare for a coffee at the House Cafe . What a perfect iced coffee: frozen coffee cubes in a glass, add milk as desired and wait for it to melt.

As a solo traveller you can comfortably sit while your coffee melts and watch the passers-by. Perhaps, if you're lucky enough, you will be serenaded by little people busking . .